When you think of the Galapagos Islands, one of the first images that comes to mind is the giant tortoises. Visitors often wonder “Are they really that big?” And honestly, it’s a question worth asking!
The tortoises here are nothing like the tiny water turtles we keep in aquariums or the small land ones we occasionally spot crossing the road on a summer day. The ones living on the Galapagos are truly massive, and impressively long-lived.
Rancho Primicias – Giant Tortoise Reserve
After exploring the lava tunnels on Santa Cruz Island, I made my way to Rancho Primicias, a private reserve where these incredible creatures roam freely. The park is just about a kilometer away from the lava tunnels, which makes visiting both spots on the same day quite convenient.
There’s no public transportation to the park, so I used the same taxi that had brought me to the lava tunnels and planned to use it again to return to Puerto Ayora afterward.
A Vast Open Sanctuary
Rancho Primicias is a wide-open tortoise sanctuary spread across lush green land. The tortoises aren’t gathered in one place; instead, they’re scattered throughout the area. To see them, you simply follow the paths, or sometimes, the tracks they leave behind.
Not long after starting my walk, I spotted my first tortoise. I stopped in my tracks. It was enormous! I had never seen a tortoise that size before. Calmly resting in the grass, it was leisurely munching on some fresh greenery. Not wanting to disturb it, I stood quietly for a while, just observing. Seeing such a magnificent animal up close was truly mesmerizing.
As I continued exploring, I encountered more tortoises; some were napping, others soaking in muddy ponds, and a few curiously watching me as I passed by. A couple of them even hissed softly when I got too close, clearly unimpressed with the sudden visitor.
After about an hour of wandering, I had seen several of these gentle giants, each with its own personality. It was peaceful, almost meditative, watching them live undisturbed in their natural habitat.
Centenarians of the Animal Kingdom
These tortoises are in a league of their own. Females can weigh over 100 kilograms, while males easily exceed 200. According to the guides, their average lifespan stretches beyond 100 years. When you think about it, calling them the dinosaurs of our time doesn’t sound far-fetched at all.
As I was leaving the park, I came across the shell of a deceased tortoise on display. The guide mentioned that visitors could step inside the shell for a photo, and of course, I couldn’t resist! Getting in and out was a bit of a challenge, but the resulting picture was totally worth it. A funny and unforgettable souvenir from a truly special encounter.
If you’re curious about the lava tunnels located right next to Rancho Primicias, be sure to read my post titled “Galapagos Islands Travel Notes #5 – Lava Tunnel.”