Ibarra Travel Guide: The White City of Northern Ecuador

For travelers entering Ecuador from the north, Ibarra is often the first real introduction to the country. Located just 130 km from the Colombian border, this city immediately stands out with its architecture, local life, and nearby natural attractions. Founded in the early 1600s, Ibarra is known as the “White City” thanks to its charming white colonial houses. Built on flat terrain, it’s also a perfect destination for those who enjoy exploring on foot. For me, Ibarra initially felt like just a short stopover—but after a few days, it turned into a place that left a lasting impression.

A bustling cobblestone street scene in the historic center of Ibarra, Ecuador, with the two-towered San Agustín Church in the background under a clear blue sky. Pedestrians cross the street, and cars are driving past.

A view from behind of three people with indigenous-style braided hair, wearing traditional clothing (white pants, dark vests, shirts), walking down a paved sidewalk in a city in Ecuador. Storefronts with shutters are on the right.

A Timeless Treat: Rosalia Suarez Ice Cream

While wandering through the streets of Ibarra, a stop at Rosalia Suarez is a must. This small shop has been making ice cream using traditional methods since 1896, making it one of the city’s most iconic spots. If you’re lucky, you might even get to see how it’s made the old-fashioned way. For me, it was more than just a dessert break—it was a memorable little experience. I tried mango, blackberry, and passion fruit, but the one that surprised me the most was the milk-based flavor—much richer and more delicious than I expected. Honestly, it was one of those rare moments where I seriously considered going back for another scoop. For the ice-cream video CLICK!

Ibarra ‘s Favorite Street Food: Empanadas de Morocho

Empanadas are a staple across South America, but in Ibarra, they take on a unique twist with Empanadas de Morocho. These white-colored empanadas are filled with rice and peas, then deep-fried and served with a slightly spicy onion sauce. From the first bite, I could tell they were different from the empanadas I was used to. Crispy on the outside, soft on the inside, and perfectly balanced with the sauce. They make for a satisfying street snack you can enjoy on the go.

Two golden-brown, crispy Empanadas de Morocho served on a white paper napkin over a white plate, with a metal bowl of spicy ají sauce in the background on a dark table. — A must-try in Ibarra: The irresistibly crunchy Empanadas de Morocho, served with a side of spicy traditional ají.

The Heart of Ibarra: Mercado Amazonas

To experience everyday life in Ibarra, Mercado Amazonas is one of the best places to visit. This large market sells everything from fresh fruits and vegetables to clothing and hot meals. Walking through the stalls, observing the rhythm of daily life, and taking in the mix of aromas was an experience in itself. I was a bit cautious when it came to trying the food, but simply being there and soaking in the atmosphere was more than enough.

A wide-angle street view of the Mercado Amazonas building in Ibarra, Ecuador, showing a cobblestone street, local traffic with yellow taxis, and outdoor market stalls under a clear blue sky.

A vibrant and narrow aisle inside Mercado Amazonas in Ibarra, Ecuador, lined with overflowing stalls of fresh tropical fruits, vegetables, and tubers. A local vendor in a blue apron is seen sitting and reading a newspaper amidst the produce.

A local woman at a food stall in Mercado Amazonas, Ibarra, Ecuador, preparing traditional ingredients including chopped offal and dark blood cubes in large metal trays.

An authentic market stall inside Mercado Amazonas in Ibarra, Ecuador, where a woman in a blue vest and white hat prepares meat while an indigenous man in a fedora hat sits nearby. Various cuts of pork and lard are displayed on metal trays.

A high-angle shot of a vendor at Mercado Amazonas in Ibarra, Ecuador, roasting broad beans in a large clay pot over a charcoal brazier, with stacks of toasted corn tortillas on a wooden tray nearby.

A vibrant display of various bulk spices, herbs, and roots at a market stall in Mercado Amazonas, Ibarra, Ecuador, with hand-written labels such as Ajo Molido, Linaza, and Jengibre.

A wide-angle interior view of the bustling open-air food court within Mercado Amazonas in Ibarra, Ecuador. Numerous locals are seated at simple wooden tables and bright yellow plastic chairs, enjoying traditional meals. The space features large pillars with colorful advertisements and various food stalls.

A Volcanic Wonder: Cotacachi and Laguna de Cuicocha

Just a short trip from Ibarra, Cotacachi serves as a gateway to some of the region’s most beautiful attractions. Known as the “Leather Capital” of Ecuador, this peaceful town is famous for its high-quality handcrafted leather goods and its exceptionally clean, flower-lined streets. It has a unique, laid-back charm that makes you want to linger a bit longer before heading into the mountains.

A wide-angle view of a peaceful public plaza in Cotacachi, Ecuador, featuring a paved walkway, a wooden bench under a large tree, and indigenous women in traditional clothing walking through the square.

A peaceful afternoon in the clean and flower-lined streets of Cotacachi.

A cobblestone street in Cotacachi, Ecuador, looking towards a historic church tower with a red-tiled top, flanked by traditional white-walled colonial buildings with wooden balconies.

The colonial charm and quiet elegance of Cotacachi’s historic streets.

From there, you can take a minibus about 14 km to reach Laguna de Cuicocha, a stunning volcanic crater lake. The moment I saw it, I was genuinely impressed. The silence, the vast scenery, and the raw beauty of nature—it all made me pause and simply take it in. If you have the time, walking around the lake is highly recommended. For me, it was both physically refreshing and mentally calming.

A travel blogger taking a selfie on a paved mountain road in Ecuador, with signs pointing toward Laguna de Cuicocha under a dramatic cloudy sky.

The main entrance gate and visitor center of the Cotacachi Cayapas Ecological Reserve in Ecuador, leading to Laguna de Cuicocha, with lush green mountains in the background.

A travel blogger taking a high-angle selfie with a selfie stick at a viewpoint overlooking the vast Laguna de Cuicocha crater lake in Ecuador, featuring the two distinct islands in the center and lush green caldera walls under a cloudy sky.

One of the most unforgettable moments of my trip to Laguna de Cuicocha was a chance encounter with an inspiring Argentine couple. They were traveling all the way from Argentina to Alaska in their charmingly compact van. It was a true “small world” moment! I later found out that they successfully completed this epic journey. Their adventure was documented under the name “Kombiando por America” (Traveling America by Van), which was proudly displayed on their vehicle. Meeting fellow travelers with such a free spirit reminded me that the best part of traveling isn’t just the places you see, but the incredible stories you encounter along the way.

A travel blogger standing with an Argentine couple in front of their blue and white Volkswagen camper van at Laguna de Cuicocha, Ecuador, with the "Kombiando por America" project visible.

While in Cotacachi, I also tried a traditional dish called Carnes Colorados. The portion was generous—filled with meat, corn, empanadas, potatoes, and avocado. The meat was a bit dry for my taste, but it was still worth trying to get a sense of the local cuisine.

A traditional Ecuadorian dish called Carnes Coloradas served on a red plate in Cotacachi, featuring marinated pork, boiled potatoes, mote (hominy), avocado, an empanada, and a side of white sauce, accompanied by a bottle of Pilsener beer.

Lost in Colors: Otavalo Market

Only a 30-minute bus ride from Ibarra, Otavalo Market is one of the largest and most colorful markets in South America. If you visit on a Saturday, you’ll find yourself immersed in a vibrant sea of colors. I truly felt lost wandering through the endless stalls of textiles and handmade goods. At every corner, there’s something that makes you think, “Should I buy this too?” But even if you don’t shop, just experiencing the atmosphere is more than enough.

A vibrant stall at the Otavalo Market in Ecuador, showcasing stacks of colorful handwoven Andean textiles, blankets, and scarves, with an indigenous woman in traditional dress standing behind the counter.

Close-up of colorful handwoven wall hangings at the Otavalo Market in Ecuador, featuring traditional patterns of Andean people, Condors, Cotopaxi volcano, and geometric designs.

A vibrant stall at Otavalo Market in Ecuador filled with hand-embroidered pillows, floral textiles, and woven wall hangings featuring Andean portraits and landscapes, with local shoppers browsing.

A vibrant display at Otavalo Market in Ecuador featuring hand-painted wooden bowls and Tigua-style paintings depicting Andean landscapes, volcanoes, and indigenous festivities.

A Place to Slow Down: San Pablo Lake

Another peaceful escape near Ibarra is San Pablo Lake, located at the base of an extinct volcano. With its calm and scenic surroundings, it’s the perfect place to slow down. For me, it was a moment to pause—just sitting by the lake and taking in the view felt incredibly grounding. Right by the shore, Puertolago Country Inn & Resort offers one of the best spots to enjoy the scenery. Whether you stay overnight or simply visit the restaurant, it’s a great place to fully appreciate the landscape.

A travel blogger standing on a lush green lawn overlooking San Pablo Lake in Ecuador, with the massive Imbabura Volcano in the background and a brick lighthouse building to the right.

A scenic view of the lush gardens and the iconic lighthouse building at Puertolago Country Inn & Resort on the shores of San Pablo Lake, Ecuador, with the Imbabura Volcano in the background.

In the end, Ibarra may be a place many travelers pass through quickly, but I believe it’s somewhere you should slow down and truly feel. During my time here, I didn’t just discover new places, I was reminded of the value of simple moments, local flavors, and quiet landscapes. If your journey brings you here, don’t rush. Take a walk, taste the food, and let yourself fall into the rhythm of the city.

How to Cross the Colombia-Ecuador Border

In this article, I’ll explain how to travel by land from Colombia to Ecuador. This route is quite popular among local people and backpackers alike. To enter Ecuador from Colombia, I took a night bus from Cali, Colombia, and arrived in the border town of Ipiales in the morning. Before crossing the border, you might want to visit the Santuario de Las Lajas Church, which is the city’s landmark and impresses everyone with its appearance.