Uncovering Bucaramanga ’s Secrets: The Magical Girón and Plaza Central

After an adventurous month-long journey through Venezuela, I finally set my sights on Colombia. Crossing the border was far from easy; the hurdles I faced and the stories from that crossing deserve a chapter of their own. But for now, I’ll set those tales aside and take you straight to my first Colombian stop: the vibrant city of Bucaramanga.

Situated in the northeast of the country, Bucaramanga stands out as one of Colombia’s most modern cities. Known for its spring-like weather and average temperatures around 22-25 °C, it is an ideal destination regardless of when you visit.

Often called ‘La Ciudad de los Parques‘, the city’s identity is tied to its numerous urban parks and lush landscapes. While it is home to roughly 1.5 million residents, it lacks the chaotic pace of cities like Bogotá or Medellín. If you are looking to discover the peaceful essence of Colombia without sacrificing modern comforts, this city is where you’ll find it.

To be precise, my entry point into Colombia was Cúcuta. However, my time there was fleeting—just a few hours to secure a bus ticket. Because of this, I consider Bucaramanga my true first stop.

Since it’s only about 200km away, taking a bus was the best option; it was both affordable and surprisingly comfortable. If you’re planning this trip, you can find buses to Bucaramanga at the ‘Terminal de Transportes’ located on Avenida 7.

While Bucaramanga offers plenty of beautiful parks, charming streets, and museums to explore, there are two specific locations that truly stand out. If you are visiting the city for a short time, these are the two spots you absolutely cannot miss.

The first is Girón. Located just 10km from the city center, this historic town feels like a place where time has stood still. Walking through Girón is like stepping back into the colonial era. As you wander between the white-washed, single-story houses that line the cobblestone streets, you’ll feel as though you’ve traveled back in time.

Founded in the first half of the 1600s, this settlement is a protected cultural heritage site. During the colonial period, it served as a vital commercial hub and was home to many wealthy families. Even today, as you stroll through its alleys, you can still sense the echoes of that historic prosperity. Long story short: if you find yourself in Bucaramanga, do not leave without experiencing the magic of Girón.

The second place I recommend in the city is Plaza Central de Bucaramanga, the true heart of local commerce. This is a marketplace where you can instantly feel like a local and immerse yourself in the vibrant rhythm of the city’s daily life.

The market spans four floors, including the ground level. The lower floors are packed with small shops offering a wide variety of souvenirs, toys, and unique local crafts. If you are looking to pick up a gift for yourself or someone else, I’m sure you’ll find something special here.

A lively food court occupies the entire top floor. Here, you’ll find numerous small stalls serving up diverse local flavors. It’s an ideal spot for those looking to grab a quick bite. While some of the dishes might be an acquired taste for some, if you’re someone who loves exploring new culinary horizons, I think you’ll really enjoy the food here.

So, what should you eat at Plaza Central? If you are adventurous when it comes to offal, you might want to try a dish called Chanfana. It is a hearty, stew-like dish made with beef innards (such as liver, kidney, and spleen) combined with potatoes, peas, onions, and a blend of local spices. With its slightly spicy kick, it’s a unique choice that offers a true taste of the region’s culinary traditions.

If you’d rather stay away from offal, then I highly recommend the region’s signature dish: Mute. This is a rich and hearty soup packed with beef, corn, chickpeas, potatoes, and a variety of fresh vegetables. It’s typically served with a side of spicy chili sauce (ají) so you can add as much kick as you like. It is incredibly filling—a true comfort meal in a bowl!

Beyond these two dishes, there is another alternative worth mentioning: Pepitoria Santandereana. A traditional staple of the region, this is a very rich and complex type of rice dish. But hold your breath for the main ingredients; it is made with goat innards (liver, heart, lungs, and kidneys) and, yes, goat blood. You didn’t read that wrong; fresh goat blood is a key part of the preparation.

In addition to these, the rice is flavored with onions, garlic, peppers, and a variety of local spices. While the ingredients might make you hesitant at first, the result is an incredibly aromatic and nutritious meal. For the true foodies and gastronomy enthusiasts out there, this is a must-try!

Aside from all these dishes, the market offers another treat for gastronomy lovers: a spectacular variety of tropical fruits. With an entire floor dedicated to fresh produce, you can find an incredible range of exotic fruits here.

As you wander through the stalls, you’ll see counters overflowing with granadilla, guanabana, pitahaya, papaya, and pineapple. You can either buy these fruits to enjoy later or head over to one of the market’s fruit salad stalls to treat yourself to a fresh, custom-made bowl. The choice is yours!

Bucaramanga holds a special place in my heart as the very first stop of my three-month journey through Colombia. It was here that I first encountered the country’s unique cultural vibrancy, its lively streets, and the warm, smiling hospitality of its people. Coming from Venezuela, I found myself momentarily stunned by the abundance in Colombia, especially after witnessing the economic hardships just across the border. The impressions I gathered in this city were a clear sign of how much I would come to love Colombia. And as it turned out, I was absolutely right.